Boston for foodies. I know the term “foodies” is unpopular amongst some, but what else are we going to call ourselves, something more technical like foo-con’s (food connoisseur)? It just doesn’t roll off the tongue like “foodie”. We will just have to go with foodies for now. I was considering titling this “Boston for foodies and winies”, but the wine scene is not real big in Boston. You can get great French or Italian wine, or over-pay for California wine, but not much beyond that. I was also considering “Boston for foodies and brewies”. The brew scene in Boston is big, but unfortunately spread out and difficult to appreciate when you are walking everywhere and maybe have not planed things out as well as you should have. Boston is all about history. You cannot go 5 feet without coming across something or someplace that has historical significance for our country, but if you have done all the tours and museums, or maybe that just not your thing, Boston still has a lot to offer, especially for the gastronomically inclined.
A trip to Boston for a foodie would not be complete without a trip to the north end. This is an old-school, and I mean old-school like few places in the US can offer, Italian district. Truth be told you could spend a week here and not get to all the amazing Italian places this area has to offer. A tip by a previous local lead us to The Daily Catch on our last trip here and we had to come back this time to see if this place was really as amazing as we remembered. No Alzheimer’s here, this is the definition of a hole in the wall with seating for about 20, a cash only policy, and a typical line half way down the block and with good reason. The food is knock your socks of good. You will be sitting about 10 feet from the stove where they make these classic Italian pasta and seafood dishes that make you remember that sometimes simple and basic can create a symphony of flavor.
Speaking of lines and flavor, across the street from The Daily Catch is Mikes Pastry. We noticed the line on our last visit but not being much for cannoli’s we skipped it last time. We knew we had to give it a try this time. They have multiple options as well as other pasties and cupcakes, but we went with the basic cannoli filled with ricotta as our litmus. I have never, ever had anything like this with the dough crisp and light yet not greasy at all and the ricotta filling with just enough sweetness and flavor without being over the top. You see people carrying their boxes all over this neighborhood and after you have been here you become like a pavlovian dog as your mouth starts to water every time you see a box.
As with any Italian district the “best pizza in town” signs are abundant, but in Boston the real bench-mark is Regina Pizzeria. Established in 1926, they have been making brick oven pizza here long enough to get it right. The crust is thin and crisp with the occasional tasty burnt spot you only get with the open flame cooking. The sauce is flavorful and abundant, not too sweet and the toping are all fresh, pick any you want, you cannot go wrong. Galleria Unberto also gets a lot of recognition but they are only open lunch hours and we were not able to squeeze it in on this visit.
While the theme in Boston dining is classic, we did find the answer for those looking for something adventurous in Shojo in Chinatown. An Asian fusion place that puts a modern twist on Chinese food and specializes in house infused vodka and gin drinks. From spicy to sweet, all the flavors are covered with their unique recipes and twists on the classics. They say that good service can make up for bad food, but here they do not have to. With an all hands on deck attitude, you will be made to feel special as they serve you their delectable food and drinks. Across the street is Winsor Dim Sum Cafe, a dim-sum restaurant and while good, I think you would have to work to find a bad dim-sum place among the many scattered around Boston’s Chinatown.
Hidden right behind Boston Commons is Scollay Square, a great place for lunch or brunch with outside seating, several styles of eggs benedict and a north east staple, the lobster roll. Lobster rolls come with many twists and varieties, but here (again the Boston theme) classic rules the day with a generous portion of tasty lobster in a soft roll and a little lettuce. Don’t try to fix it if it’s not broke, right. Finally, a trip to Boston would not be complete without a stop at Sam LaGrassa’s. The award winning and Guy Ferrari recognized deli in the heart of the city. Here you find the classic (again, that word) corned beef or pastrami piled high on rye bread, the type of deli that is famous and prevalent on the east coast but hard to find in the west.
Tips on how to maximize your adventure; stay somewhere in the downtown area and walk everywhere. Traffic is typical for big cities but its small enough that if you are centrally located you can get anywhere on foot and will likely beat anyone taking a cab. Also lines are common at all the best places. If you find yourself at a place without a line during peak hours you are probably at the wrong place. You can avoid the lines by going at off-peak hours. Troya and I found ourselves skipping breakfast (which does not seem to be a big meal in this town) and grabbing lunch around 11, right when everything is just opening. We would walk right in and then walk past a line of many on our way out when we were done. When ordering pizza, call your order in for take-out. You can then walk right past the line of people, grab your pie and go sit in a park, listen to the street musicians, or sit by the water as you eat while the others are waiting hours for a seat inside.
Author Archives: Doc
Finger Lakes Wine Tasting- Seneca Lake Wine Trail and Final Thoughs
Day two of our Finger Lakes Wine Tasting adventure found us on the Seneca Lake wine trail. The overwhelming majority of wineries in the finger lakes region are on Seneca Lake and to do this trail justice you probably need two to three days dedicated to tasting. Having just one day to pack it all in we decided to concentrate on the less densely populated eastern shore. The views from this side of the lake are amazing and packing a picnic lunch to enjoy either at one of the wineries or finding your own spot overlooking the lake is highly recommended.
Our first stop of the day was at Damiani Wine Cellars. They had a long list of wines available, but were also offering a wine and chocolate pairing. One word of caution when you see a long list of wines available at a winery, it can be a good thing, ie-you are likely to find at least one thing that you enjoy, but also a bad thing, they are not focusing on any one area so you are less likely to find anything earth shattering. Here we found the chocolate very good, but were not pleased with any of the wines paired with them or the actual pairing itself. They had several Rieslings that were good but not worth taking home.
After a quick lake side lunch we found our way Red Newt Cellars. Removed from the shore line, they did not have the incredible views some of the other wineries enjoyed, but the grounds and tasting room/restaurant were very nice all the same. They have several decent Rieslings here. Their flagship wine is a sweeter Riesling, more in line with what I think most people think of when they think of US type Rieslings. It was very pleasant with a lot of fruit. I could enjoy a glass on a hot summer afternoon, but I am not sure if I would have wanted another.
From there we passed numerous wineries on our way to Lamoreaux Landing Wine Cellars. Another of the better known wineries in this region and they have found a location that takes full advantage of the beautiful lake views. They have several very good Rieslings here and if you taste them side by side you really get to taste how the exact same vine can produce very different wine just based on where they are planted. Although very well decorated and recognized, the price point for all of these wines was very reasonable with their $11 table white being a very nice every day wine that would pair very well lunch or a light dinner. Of note they also had a couple reds here that were far better than any others we had tasted to that point.
Until our experience at Lamoreaux we had all but given up on the reds in this area, but after tasting there we decided to double back and give Shalestone Vineyards a try. Their motto “Red is all We Do” seemed pretty daring after all we had tasted and learned about the region. Much to our surprise and enjoyment the reds here are definitely worth the stop. At the advice of our host Jacqueline, we enjoyed them for what they were and where we were. Given the limitations of the region with regard to the length of the growing season you are not going to get the full bodied, supper complex reds you find in other areas, but they are able to do the most with what they have and offer a flavor and complexity that we could not find at other wineries in this region.
Final thoughts: This region has become an East Coast destination for wine tasting. While Riesling and Gewurztraminer are not generally on my go-to list they are both done very well here and I was able to find several that were much more flavorful and complex than any that I have tried in other regions. They also have some good Chardonnays and are experimenting with some other European varietals that I was not familiar with before coming here. If whites are your thing this area is definitely a must on your list of wine adventures. They do those well and while they know it are not at all snooty or in your face about it, it’s nice to see they have develop a mature confidence about their wine and are not trying to compare themselves to anyone else. If red is what you seek you may want to look elsewhere.
Finger Lakes Wine Tasting-Cayuga Wine Trail
Growing up here oh so many years ago this area had a few wineries scattered around the lakes but nothing like you see today. The “wine revolution” happened about 25 years ago when people realized the climate around here matched those of some of the very distinguished growing areas of the word. Quality has steadily improved and now the finger lakes area of New York has become a highly regarded Appalachian for white wine and now grows more Riesling then Germany. I have tasted a few of the local wines but it has been a while so Troya and I were looking forward to re-visiting the wines of the finger lakes.
Jumping onto the Cayuga Lake Wine Trail for our first outing we started at Americana Vineyards. They have a little restaurant here and we wanted to “fill-up” before hitting the trail. The food here is some of the best we have had in the area, using all fresh ingredients. We were told by our server “pick what you like because no one thing is better the other”, and she was right. I had a lamb burger that was perfectly cooked, not gamey at all and was as flavorful as any I have had. I am not much of a sweet potato fry person, but these were also some of the best I have had. The pulled pork sandwich and pork hash also got great reviews. Ensured that our blood sugar would not drop for a while we stepped into the adjoining tasting room and were greeted by Candice who happily entertained us while leadng us through our tasting. They have over 20 wines on their list with names like Revolutionary Red, Americana Blush and Indian Summer. Notables here were the Chardonnay, which had a lot of oak, but not over the top, and a clean smooth finish with a hint of apple and pear. The dry Riesling was also very good with a nice balance of fruit and mineral. The Pinot Gris was also very nice, unique in that it had a lot more fruit and less acid then your typical Pinot Gris. Finally the Apparition had a very nice balance of citrus and sweet, a great summer picnic wine that would pair well with just about anything you can put in a basket.
Our next stop was Bellwether Ciders. They produce several types of cider from champagne style to original to desert. These ciders are all made with local apples, some from your typical table apples and some from varietals grown specifically for cider. It was a lot of fun to be about to taste them all side by side and pick out their unique qualities.
Continuing up the trail we found ourselves at Sheldrake Point Winery, one of the better known wineries in the area with picturesque views done onto the lake. Known for their Riesling, the wine that impressed me the most was the 2012 Gewurztraminer. Very floral on the nose and no disappointment on the tongue. This was easily the most complex wine of the day with layers of floral and fruit and a long, clean finish. This is something I might want to drink alone so as not to mask or overpower any of the flavors in this wine.
Out on the trail again we stumbled upon Myer Farm Distillers. Not what you typically find on a wine trail but we could not pass it up and are glad we didn’t. They produce several types of spirits here. The Ginger Vodka was very flavorful and unlike any vodka I had ever had. The Wheat Whiskey was as smooth as any that I have tasted and something you could sip and enjoy alone. The gin here is also outstanding. Definitely work the stop, even for those who do not typically enjoy the “hard” alcohols.
Our last stop was Hosmer Winery. They also have a long list of wines to choose from, but the only thing that really impressed me here as their sparkling wine and the Raspberry Bounce which is a sweeter sparkling wine with a lot of flavor.
A short but eventful outing on our first day. The Gewurztraminer from Sheldrake Point was easily the wine of the day, but Americana was our favorite stop with several quality wines and a warm, friendly, relaxed yet very knowledgeable staff.
Soquel Supper Club
While the rest of the world is usually dusting of their BBQ and breaking out the sunblock in June, we here in Santa Cruz are usually stuck in “June Gloom” which means heavy fog, cold temperature and some evening fires. This year we have been blessed with an anomaly in the jet stream and have had weather the rest of the country would envy. It was on just such a perfect summer evening that Troya and I ventured to Soquel to partake in our first Soquel Supper Club. These events are hosted by Back Porch and Uncie Ro’s and held at the Everett Family Farm. The concept is simple, great food made from local ingredients paired with local wine on a local farm, what’s not to like? Everett Family Farm is located on old San Jose Road back in the valley. A gorgeous property by the creek where they grow organic vegetables and fruit and raise chickens for eggs. All of these can be purchased at their stand on the property or at the local farmers markets. Both Uncie Ro’s and Back Porch are locally famous chefs who specialize in local/organic fare that can be found at the farmers markets but also do special events such as this.
The evening started with a glass of sparkling which we both enjoyed, not too sweet and not a lot of yeast that some sparkling are prone to. It lost its bubbles quickly, but that was likely due to the fact that we were drinking out of wine glasses. The wines of the evening were from both Odonata Wines and Armida Wines. Neither of them have a sparkling on their list so I do not know where it was from but I think it was from Odonata. The first course of the evening was Tuscan style Panzanella paired with a 2011 Gewurztraminer from Armida. Troya did not enjoy the salad as much as I did with several types of tomatoes, cucumbers and bread crumbs. The pairing was very nice and the Gewurztraminer was a perfect summer sipping wine, not too sweet with a nice clean, floral body. Next came a Tomato Bisque with a Brie Panini paired with a 2011 Russian River Valley Chardonnay also from Armida. This was the hit of the evening and for a second we almost wished it was cold and
foggy and we could have had more of the bisque and Panini by a big fire. The Chardonnay was a bit on the dry side, not much oak or butter and I do not think I would have wanted to drink it alone, but it went perfect with the bisque. The main course was a wood fired steak with a blue cheese and tomato reduction paired with a Barbera. The meat came from el Salchichero, a butcher shop on the west side that is dedicated to local, sustainable meats. They smoke their own meet in house and also make their own sausage (we have yet to try but will be doing so very soon). These steaks had a great flavor, much more then big store bought meet, and the reduction added just enough flavor without being overbearing. The Barbera, I believe from an Armida off brand, was very soft with some tannic flavor at the end. I thought it went very well together, Troya not so much. The desert was roasted stone fruit in a honey glaze over vanilla ice cream paired with the 2011 Syrah Desert from Odonata. The stone fruit was a perfect ending to the evening, and while the Syrah Desert was good, we both thought it was a bit big for the stone fruit. Having been in BC recently we both thought a nice ice wine would have gone much better.
So, if you are in to this kind of thing, great local food paired with great local wine in a picturesque setting, the Soquel Supper Club is something you have to try. Your next opportunity will be on July 25th followed by August 22nd.